Felted Sweater Projects: Getting a Whole Jumper Used

Once a jumper is felted, it stops being knitwear and becomes fabric — thick, dense, windproof, and it does not fray when cut. That last property is what makes it so useful, because it removes hemming from every project.

The process itself is in how to felt a wool sweater. This is what to do with the result.

Cutting the jumper up

Work out what you are making before you cut, because placement decides your yield.

1. Cut the sleeves off at the shoulder seam.
2. Cut up each side seam and across the shoulders, giving two flat body panels.
3. Cut each sleeve along its underarm seam and open it out.
4. Keep the cuffs and hem attached wherever you can — they are finished edges you cannot make as neatly yourself.
5. Keep the neckband: it makes a ready-made cuff, a bag handle or a headband.

An adult jumper gives roughly two 45 × 50 cm panels plus two sleeve pieces — about half a square metre.

Small projects — offcuts and sleeves

• Mittens. The classic, two or three pairs per jumper, using the cuffs for the wrists. Full method in sweater mittens.
• Fingerless gloves. A sleeve cut to length with a thumb hole, and nothing else.
• Coasters and mug mats. Circles or squares cut with pinking shears, single or double thickness.
• Christmas decorations. Stars, hearts and trees cut from patterned sections, blanket-stitched in pairs and stuffed — see felted Christmas ornaments.
• Wool flowers and appliqué. Layered circles gathered at the centre, or shapes stitched onto other projects. See felt applique.
• Pincushions. Two squares, stuffed firmly, ideally with wool.
• Bag charms and keyrings. Small shapes with an eyelet — see felt bag charms.

Medium projects — one or two panels

• Cushion covers. Two panels, an envelope back, buttons from the jumper's own placket if it had one. The easiest way to use a whole front panel.
• Hot water bottle covers. A sleeve is often exactly the right width; use the cuff as the opening.
• Slippers. Cut from a template with a felted sole layer, or several layers stitched together. Compare with the wet felted versions in felted slippers.
• Simple tote bags. Two panels, a base gusset, and the neckband or a sleeve as the strap.
• Tea and egg cosies. Thick felted wool is a genuinely good insulator.
• Hats and headbands. A sleeve cut to length, gathered at one end, or a straight band from the hem.
• Laptop and tablet sleeves. Two rectangles, a fold-over flap, a button.
• Bowl cosies and plant pot covers. A rectangle wrapped and seamed, with the hem at the top.

Large projects — several jumpers

• Patchwork blankets. Squares from six or eight jumpers, butted edge to edge and joined with a wide zigzag or blanket stitch. No seam allowance needed, since nothing frays. The best possible use of a colour collection.
• Rugs. Strips or squares stitched to a heavy backing — see felted rugs.
• Cushion sets in a colour family, made in one session.
• Jackets and gilets. Ambitious, but felted wool tailors well because it needs no lining or hemming.
• Draught excluders. Sleeves joined end to end and stuffed.

What the scraps are good for

Nothing gets thrown away.

• Stuffing. Cut small and used as filling for cushions and toys.
• Core wool. Pull the felted fabric apart into fibre and use it inside sculptures, where the matted texture does not matter — see core wool.
• Needle felting bases. A piece of felted jumper is a good backing for needle felting on fabric and for wool paintings.
• Padding and pads. Under furniture legs, inside bags, as a pressing cloth.
• Cleaning cloths. Wool holds dust well and polishes glass without lint.

Working with the fabric

• Sharp scissors, long cuts. Small snips give a ragged edge on thick felt.
• Zigzag or stretch stitch on a machine — felted wool retains a little give and a straight stitch can snap under strain.
• Walking foot if you have one; thick felt drags under a standard foot.
• Heavier needle, a 90/14 or a denim needle for anything double thickness.
• No hemming. Cut edges are finished. Pinking shears add a decorative edge if you want one.
• Steam press with a cloth to flatten a wavy panel before cutting.

Sourcing jumpers

Charity shops, end-of-season sales and your own wardrobe. Look for 80% or more wool, no superwash label, and ignore the size and style entirely — you are buying fabric. Damaged jumpers with moth holes are ideal and usually cheap, since you cut around the damage anyway.

Wash and freeze anything second-hand before it joins your stash, for the reasons set out in protecting wool from moths.